Showing posts with label Ancient. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ancient. Show all posts

Thursday, 13 April 2017

K is for..Keda keda!...and...Khayal el Zill...and the Khan...



is for

Keda keda!


This is a super untranslatable phrase :) – I can only tell you it’s used a lot! Technically it means 'like this' but the colloquial usage is not restricted to the meaning. It can be an expression of affirmation, triumph, defiance...it's one of those shape-shifting nifty phrases, like water - fits anything that it's poured into.


And here is a number titled Keda keda, from a Lebanese artist.






Khayal el Zill 


which loosely translates to ‘shadows of the imagination’ and refers to shadow puppetry, all the pun intended.  Broadly speaking, it was a form of popular theatre, uniquely Egyptian screen entertainment before the advent of TV/cinema.   


It is thought that the first performances began at the founding of Cairo in the 10th century itself, and by the 13th/14th century it was wildly popular, the shows being held across the city. For any celebratory occasion – weddings, circumcisions, and of course, in high demand for the nights of the holy month of Ramadan.   Many of the plays were serial in nature, designed to keep the audiences coming back for more. 

A 'screenshot' of a different kind! Performance of Khayal el Zil 
in an old merchant residence by a folk theatre group.  Cairo.


It helped that the plays were performed on portable, foldable stages. Relatively small, they could be set up quickly anywhere. Mounted on wooden rods, the foot-high puppets were made of camel hide stretched thin and translucent, and were constructed so that their limbs could move independently.  Each company had their own raees el khayal, or master of the shadows, and enough plays for each night of the Ramadan, when crowds assembled after the iftar at sunset in public spaces for entertainment. The puppeteers not only used the puppets, they augmented the storytelling with different voices for the different characters, sound effects, music, lights. 


The development of plastics meant that skills with wood and leather, the slow, prideful processes of individual hand-crafted puppets were gradually lost.  The audiences disappeared into cinemas and then gravitated in front of living room TV’s. The master of shadows no longer held audiences in thrall after nightfall. (Read more here). 


Khan el Khalili!


Often called just the ‘Khan’, the Khan el Khalili was set up in the heart of Fatimid Cairo by Emir Djaharks el-Khalili in 1382.  It has been in continuous operation ever since, a pivotal hub of trade in medieval times and the most important retail area in Cairo still, after almost seven centuries. 


Somewhere near the metaworkers and coppersmiths lane.

 
There are many arches dating from centuries 
ago.

Essentially, it is an Arab, open-air marketplace - a maze of tiny, whip-thin, old lanes of shops and ancient monuments, a total treasure-trove if you are interested in shopping, or ancient buildings.  A must-visit if you are in Cairo!
 
A shop selling lamps and lanterns.  


Spice seller's display. In medieval times, Egypt was a major 
trading point for spices.



And also the award winning Arabic operatic singer and composer, Hiba Al Kawas, because I don't want to give the impression that Arab music is only pop, rap and alternative. There has always been a very classical, traditional side to Arab music, right alongside modern/folk/pop.

And finally, here is Cheb Khaled, the King of Rai from Algeria, can't leave him out!  He has a list of awards longer than my arm...







Did you Know Cheb Khaled has been performing and Knocking people's socks off with his music since the age of 14? And that the word 'Rai' translates to opinion? Rai music is a blend of traditional Bedouin desert music and pop. The lyrics, often switching between Arabic and French, can be frank, sometimes bawdy, to the point of offending the more conservative Islamic elements.






Posted for the A-Z Challenge 2017  

Thursday, 6 April 2017

E is for....Enticing...



is for

El General, a Tunisian and a catalyst in the Tunisian revolution -




and since we are on the subject, listen to Elissa too, sing "Mawtini," one of the enduring Arab anthems, written by Palestinian poet Ibrahim Tuqan in 1934 and composed by Lebanese composer Mohammed Flayfel. Mawtini means 'my homeland' incidentally. It has been the national anthem of Palestine, it is the anthem now of Iraq, the tempo is faster and more of a marching vibe there. Elissa's is a slower, yearning, more soulful, rendition. Many Arab singers have sung it to this slower beat, my favourite being Omar Kamal.




Egypt!

Now what can I tell you about Egypt? :)  It’s Enticing, and its history is as mind-boggling as Syria’s.


It’s like an oddball miracle of geography that defies all possible logic – a roaring great river comes slashing across the most formidable desert on the Earth and never dries up all the way to the sea. Not only doesn't dry up, instead floods (!) and creates the most fertile soil which then sustains life for 700,000 years!! It’s just beyond all human understanding.


Egypt is too vast to sum up in a blogpost, so I’m not going to try. I will tell you instead that I have been both tourist and resident there and I have loved all of it exceedingly - some of my best travel memories and epiphanies, writing, and reading, and learning, have happened there. And I'll show you some random photographs and give you some random facts. 


And some day, when I have sufficiently got over this whole massive expat trauma-fest of the last twenty years, I might stop wringing my hands and use them instead to write an Encyclopedia on how easy it was to get enthralled with places and people that came into my life, and how difficult to say goodbye to them, even though the transience of these relationships was known to all parties from the outset. “Keep it clean: expat postings without emotional entanglements.” Yeah, I think I’ll do that :)  For now, back to Egypt.

Cairo and Nile. From the Cairo Tower at Zamalek. Once you touch/ 
drink the Nile, it calls you back - common Egyptian saying. 

Apart from the Giza Pyramids, which are the biggest and most
famous, Egypt has a 100 more. 

Water wheels, Fayoum. Water wheels were introduced here
by the Greeks, almost two thousand years ago.


Damietta. Journey's end for the Nile.


El Alamein. The War Memorials there - rows upon rows of 
twenty somethings, uff turns my brain inside out.


Luxor Temple. Mosque of Abu Haggag in its precincts. 
Continuity of worship for 3500 years.

Sunset and felucca. Aswan. 


Downtown Cairo. Meidan Talat Harb.  Traffic so pristine because
it was a weekend morning.



Sharm al Sheikh. The whole of Sinai is breathtaking.


White Desert National Park. Loved it every time. Gazillion stars 
at night. Sunrise without birdsong. Surreal peacefall.

Eastern Harbour. Alexandria. Some of the best seafood 
I've ever had in my life! 

Lone angler. Mersa Matruh. North Coast. The Med 
Sea absolutely resplendent! Oh, Arabs love angling.



Epic of Gilgamesh

This is the very first, earliest surviving epic poem. Nearly everything started in the Middle East.  Written in Mesopotamia, some 3800 years ago, about a King, and his friend; about long sea voyages and the quest for self knowledge, as all epics are in the end. Edited because this post was just getting out of control! :)





Did you know the ancient Egyptians worshipped over 1400 gods? They had gods for danger, and chores, and missing things. And each had to be placated with his/her own requirements exactly. Talk about complicated spiritual lives!











Posted for the A-Z Challenge 2017