Hello and welcome! to another A-Z series on M-i-V...
All through April I'm posting on the broad theme of Museums & Monuments Across the World - mostly those I've been to and a few on my bucket list that I haven't been able to visit yet. Museums are one of my favourite ways to get to know a culture, they sum up what those peoples want to preserve and pass onto their grandchildren, the facets they want to show their foreign visitors, how they perceive, present and preserve their own storyline and that of their interactions with the world. Come museum hopping with me!
P is for Museo Nacional del Prado
Prado is the national art museum of Spain, located in Madrid. It started, as most of the European art museums did, modelled in part after the Louvre, but different from it in one important aspect - the Louvre's collection originated from nationalised Crown property or confiscated holdings from the Church or nobility as a result of the Revolution. The Prado started with the royal art collection at its core, being thrown open to the public in 1819 by the then King.
According to its official Guide, it is the largest and most significant collection of artworks from the Spanish school including Goya, Velasquez and El Greco. In addition, it has significant holdings of other European masters such as Rubens, Bosch and Titian. A must visit if one wants an understanding of European art generally and the Spanish school.
It started with 311 paintings initially but that had increased to 4000 by 1827, in less than a decade. Today its holdings amount to over 20,000 works - 7600 paintings, 8000+ drawings, 4000+ prints and 1000 sculptures.
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The Velasquez Entrance and the main facade of Prado. Not where the visitor's entry is... |
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Which is off to the side and the queues were long when I visited. There was this busker playing rather enticing tunes - I didn't recognise them but they kept me pleasantly occupied while we waited in line. |
The oldest artwork there is from the 5th century BCE, the oldest painting from the 12th century, though bulk of its holdings are from the 16th to 18th century royal collection. As such, the museum authorities feel while Prado is not vast like the Louvre, it is 'eloquent' rather than 'exhaustive.'
Must see masterpieces at the Prado include, among others:
- The Garden of Earthly Delights - Hieronymus Bosch
- Las Meninas - Diego Velasquez
- The Third of may, 1808 - Francisco de Goya
- The Annunciation - Fra Angelico
- The Descent from the Cross - Rogier van der Weyden
- Saturn Devouring his Son - Francisco de Goya
Photography is strictly prohibited inside, I'm not sure why it's done by some museums and not by others. However, mine is not to question why. I like clicking quick photographs in museums as aide memoires, as fatigue always sets in and everything is a blur after a few galleries. The quickpics help me relive the experience and deepens my understanding of the artworks. Anyway, there was no chance of doing that here, so I got the Guide instead. It's less than 500 pages, so it too is nowhere near exhaustive.
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| Still life. Always a special interest. From the Guide. |
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Portrait of Ferdinando Brandani, an official for the Pope's Secretary. By Velasquez, c. 1650. Source: The Prado Guide |
Whatever its size of holdings or gallery space, obviously that has nil to do with Prado's popularity - it is the 13th most visited museum globally. It drew over 3.5 million visitors in 2025, a number that has been rising through the last decade, so much so that museum authorities have introduced crowd control measures to avoid over-tourism. That's borne out by personal experience - it sure was busy when I visited in 2017, as the queue shows in the photo. For all that, it has some superbly amazing art and I had a very pleasant time there.
P is for Petra
The other place I wanted to tell you about is Petra in Jordan. Like Ellora and Elephanta, this too is rock cut, an entire city half built and half carved out of mountains, only from a far more ancient time so even more awe inspiring.
Petra is a premium example of an ancient caravan city connecting Arabia, Egypt and Syria-Phoenicia, on the trade routes between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea. The area around Petra had been settled by humans for many millennia, from about 7000 BCE. The Nabateans, a nomadic Arab peoples, came to settle in the area in the 4th century BCE. Petra was built by them and later became the capital of the Nabatean kingdom in the 2nd century BCE, based on the proximity to the trade routes and the revenues from it - incense from Arabia, silks from China and spices from India.
They were used to harsh desert conditions so could work the land skillfully. The Nabateans were super expert desert farmers, stone carvers and rainwater harvesters. They built an ingenious system of channels, tunnels, diversion dams and cisterns that gave them masterful control of their water resources. There are many types of structures built/carved into the rockfaces, the most famous being Al Khazaneh or The Treasury, which shows distinctive Hellenistic features. Petra is known for its Hellenistic architecture, the proof of their exposure to diverse cultures, all of which were inflenced by Hellenistic culture.
Petra flourished till the 1st century when a part of was conquered by the Romans in 106 CE and absorbed into the Roman Empire. The city gradually declined under the Roman and Byzantine Empire. As other sea routes opened up and its geographic advantage diminished, Petra became a dead city. It was rediscovered by European travellers in the early 1800s. Formal excavations started in 1929 and are still ongoing as digital and newer technologies to explore and document historical structures emerge. UNESCO incorporated it as a World Heritage site in 1985.
The ancient city has the remnants of over 800 different structures spanning a range of tombs, monasteries, amphitheatres, streets, temples and cisterns/diversionary dams. It is approached through a narrow gorge called the Siq which opens out dramatically in front of the Treasury building.
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Walking the Siq, some horse carriages were ferrying tourists to the entrance. |
I visited Petra in winter 2013 - it is a huge area, over 25,000 ha and pedestrian traffic only, so you can imagine it is impossible to cover the whole in a day. Camel, horse and donkey rides were available but I chose to walk. When I went there were no motorised buggies, just horse carriages which covered the Siq only. From thereon it was feet, human or animal. I believe carts/buggies have been introduced in the Siq for elderly and/or disabled passengers since.
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| Just before the Siq ends and the city begins. |
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First view of Al khazaneh or the Treasury, the most famous building of Petra. |
I spent the whole day merrily rambling in and out of buildings and turned back only when I realised the sun was really low. I had got separated from my family and had nothing on me except my camera, my guys had thoughtfully taken my backpack off me somewhere in the Siq. So I had no mobile phone (not that it would have worked inside the Archaeological Park, I don't think), neither any money nor light. Mountains get super dark after nightfall as I know from personal experience. There was a guided tour called 'Petra by Night' but that didn't begin till 8-8:30 pm. So I practically sprinted out of there over the uneven pebble strewn paths and down the Siq and omg! was I glad to see the family waiting for me outside!
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Animals waiting for custom. Petra is carved from mountains of red sandstone which gives the buildings their distinctive colour. For this reason Petra is also known as the Rose City. |
Despite the rather undignified scramble at the end, I thoroughly enjoyed my day in Petra and would go back in a heartbeat given half a chance. It is a truly wondrous site that one can return to many times. Jordan itself is a country worth visiting multiple times for its historical/archaeological sites and also for its plethora of Judeo-Christian and Islamic sites of religious significance, if you're into pilgrimages.
Since I've been there a new site museum has come up with Japanese grant. This is just outside the entrance to the Siq/Petra and houses the arterfacts found among the ruins of the city. Showcases the Nabatean, Edomite and Roman civilisational aspects, the lifestyles and the rise and fall of Petra. Proposed in 2013 and inaugurated in 2019. Read more
here.
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| The paths of Petra. |
As per UNESCO, Petra is one of the 'world's most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.' Read more about the reasons why Petra is world heritage material
over here. The ancient city is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Jordan and got over 1 million visitors pre-Covid years. Recovery has been a bit patchy due to regional instability affecting tourism. And the current war is not helping I'd imagine.
Did you know that Iran, known as Persia till 1930s, has 29 UNESCO World heritage sites? Several have been reportedly damaged by the recent war, unfortunately. I have been to Tehran as a school kid but don't have any worthwhile memories of the trip. Would definitely like to go that country and explore their super rich and deep history and millennia old historical/cultural connections with both the East and the West. Once the dust settles. Fingers crossed the ceasefire leads to a complete cessation of all violence.
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Thank you for visiting and reading and particularly for your patience today! Have a wonderful A-Z if you are taking the Challenge and a wonderful April if you're not!